When someone says the words “Southeast Asia”, most people think of Thailand or Bali, maybe even Vietnam. If they’ve visited before, their subconscious has most likely narrowed the scope even further. Perhaps to Patong and Bangla Road, Bangkok and Khao San Road, Kuta, Seminyak, Gili Trawangan, Ubud, Hoi An or Halong Bay. These locations are by far the most popular and therefore the most famous, but talk to people who have been to them over multiple decades and you will begin to hear the same things; “You should’ve seen it 10 years ago”. The fact is that when places become tourist destinations, they are inevitably overrun by tourism. Those who discovered them years prior reminisce about the quiet charm that existed before its fame. As time has moved forward, travel has become more common and significantly more achievable. Hidden gems and the early discovery of hotspots has become fashionable. Like the band that you listened to on triple J before anyone else had heard of them, you feel a certain pride in your discovery before the rest of the world. But like that band with that song, once mainstream media gets a hold of it these locations get overplayed, overran, and they lose their charm. We move on and seek a new song that will take us to a special place that no one else has discovered yet.
While Thailand, Bali and Vietnam still have many of these hidden gems off their tourist trails, we often make the mistake of not changing the station to find something new. In this case, the particular station we are changing is the country all together. If what it was like ten years ago is what made these places so famous, then we should look for a place that feels ten years behind. To feel ten years behind in Southeast Asia, I imagine a place that is less developed than the famous hotspots. With less development comes more communal involvement. More kindness, as families and businesses work together to get ahead. And with this comes a feeling of trust and welcome from a tourist’s perspective. I’m going to let you in on my secret hidden gem. The place that feels the way they paint the picture of ten years ago. Enter Luang Prabang.
Nestled in the west of the tiny landlocked country of Laos sits its former capital city. It’s seen turmoil. It’s seen pain. It’s seen invasion and war to rival many before. It has a history of being built up and dressed down by external forces, but this city is one of pure beauty. From its scenery and the architecture it adopted under French rule, to its people and the community they have created, Luang Prabang has something for everyone.
Affordability is synonymous with Southeast Asia for those who venture from the western world. As time has gone on complaints are heard of price rises in the hotspots but Laos remains affordable. In the night markets on the main street you will not be greeted by hard-line haggling, instead it is all about a fair price. It’s a place where you’d feel rude to attempt to undercut someone because you feel comfortable with their price. They aren’t the type of people to attempt to rip off a customer or guest of their country. They are proud to showcase their culture and want those who venture out to them to love it as much as they do. As for being dragged into stalls by owners trying to sell you their wares, forget about it. Respect and patience oozes from locals in a way you want to adopt back home. The stretch of a dollar goes beyond the local markets and into their classy establishments, allowing those who want a slice of the finer side of life the ability to enjoy it without breaking the bank. My favourite bar in the world sits in this city. It’s a place where value for money is an extreme understatement. A quaint cocktail bar called 525 produces the best cocktails I’ve ever tasted. Not only does English native Andrew create quality refreshment, he also endeavours to upskill local Laos people in the art of bartending and cocktail making. The lavish, low-lit décor accompanied by crisp air conditioning takes you away from the harsh heat and humidity that Asia brings for an evening of exquisite tapas, second-to-none negronis and a must try old fashioned with a price tag that one would only dream of. These cocktails start from around US$6 with a quality well beyond some $30 cocktails I’ve tasted elsewhere.
From class to kick-ons, each South East Asian country has its own uniquely famous nightspots. While you won’t find neon painted backpackers cramming onto a beach at full moon here, nor a strip full of go-go bars and shots that could very well come from a methylated spirits bottle, it does have something that will very quickly encourage a night of frivolity when the city is shut. Ask any traveller who has stayed out after all the bars are closed about the nightlife in Luang Prabang and no doubt a cheeky smile will appear on their face. “The bowling Alley!”. The bowling alley is the place where everyone goes in search of the last bar. Situated a short Tuk tuk ride out of town, the bowling alley is far enough from the city to avoid the cities curfew laws. This isn’t a place where you play for sheep stations, however. In fact, from my time spent there I would say only around 50% of people actually play the game. But the bar is open, the drinks are cheap, the rules are borderline non-existent, and the party continues. Play in your own shoes, play barefoot, use your friend as the ball, its controlled chaos of the cheapest calibre that brings people from all walks of life to a seedy shed in the middle of nowhere. Sounds dodgy, but afterall what Southeast Asian stereotype doesn’t have an element of dodgy about it.
To push the dodgy further, a very common polarising topic for those who first go to those famous countries is the street food. The dos, the don’ts, the absolutelys and the absurdities. We’re talking anything from chicken on sticks and banh mi to the tourist trap scorpion and tarantula which really has no place in their modern-day culture to begin with. Thankfully Laos’ most common street food is a simple delight they modified from the French between 1893 and 1907. Sandwiches. So simple, but so good, not to mention, so cheap. Call it the Laos late night kebab because there is no beating a sandwich from a street vendor to finish off the night as you stumble home after a night that has, no doubt, created stories you will wish you remembered better.
Sure, photos are the common way of capturing a moment but traditionally we have searched for souvenirs to take home. Most likely, someone who has ventured to the oriental side of the world has brought back some form of handicraft. The beauty of these is that the culture hasn’t forgotten the personal touch and story that comes from handmade pieces, whether it be clothing, decoration, furniture, or crockery. Today’s modern capitalist countries thrive on production, rendering so many material pieces as numbers pumped out by corporate machines. But in Laos, even the smallest, simplest looking creations have a story. Whether it be from the production or the creator, they have a unique origin all to themselves. Non-Government Organisations throughout Luang Prabang, such as Ock Pop Tok, aim to keep this handmade artistry alive. The use of old-school looms and tools are showcased while youth are encouraged to carry on the heritage of once prominent artforms and educate travellers on the effort and pride that goes into handmade pieces from the region. You won’t find complex beauty like these creations in any department store throughout the western world nor fake versions in busy main street markets.
If the laisse-faire local lifestyle hasn’t captured the tourist’s heart after experiencing days in the city’s streets, bars, cafes, markets and boutique resorts there is one common denominator that all Southeast Asian hotspots have as a draw card. It may go unnoticed until you think of your favourite holiday destinations, but you will realise that most of these places have a divine natural beauty, paired with the element of water. Let’s take a journey through the famous:
· Thailand has its Islands and beaches. Phuket with Patong, Koron, Kata and Surin. Phi Phi and James Bond Island.
· Vietnam takes a different turn but even it’s beautiful city of lanterns, Hoi an is situated on a picturesque river setting. As for Halong Bay, no introduction is needed. There is a reason it is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.
· Look to Australia’s playground, Bali. It’s notorious for its surfing in Canggu and Uluwatu along with its Gili Islands and Ubud’s waterfalls littering Instagrams of all ages.
It’s proof that a splash of water adds the cherry on top with its ability to calm tension and soothe the soul of a troubled, hard worked foreigner. Rivalling and possibly conquering the afore mentioned waterfalls is Kuang Si Falls. The kind of place that shouldn’t be left on a screen but pulled onto a canvas and hung up for all to see. A multi-level fall with vibrant blue waters streaming down lengthy cascades, creating a number of natural pools for all to enjoy. The best part about it is that there is always space for a swim. Why? Because all those hotspots were just like this at one stage before time passed, word got out and tourists flocked.
It is inevitable that this innocent haven will boom as people return to the road after covid in search of something new. We’ve learnt that life is short, nothing is guaranteed and if you want to explore, don’t wait. So, mark it on your map and ensure you get to experience Luang Prabang as soon as possible. This is your chance to be among the first to hear a new song, but don’t be the listener, be the speaker. When the opportunity arises in the future, it’s your turn to say, “you should’ve seen it 10 years ago”.
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